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The next stop of our 5-hour Legazpi itinerary was the Cagsawa ruins. The Cagsawa belfry is a staple in almost every postcard that glorifies the moody volcano. To picture Mayon without the tower is like to paint the New York skyline without the Empire State Building. They simply cannot be drawn or photographed without the other.

The belfry is the lone surviving testament of Mayon’s treacherous temperament that buried the whole town of Cagsawa on the 1st day of February, 1814. The bells had long been silenced by time, and the tower that held it now serves as a gravestone for the 1,200 souls that were trapped in the church that used to stand beside it.

After waiting in vain for the clouds to leave the volcano, we headed to the entrance of the site where pasalubong shops littered the area. It took some time before we could decide what handicrafts and delicacies to buy for our friends and siblings back in Manila. It’s a good thing that our tricycle driver, which agreed to lend the rest of his morning to us, was very patient and considerate (and for P180 only!).

Nuestra Senora de la Porteria

Our next destination was fortunately untouched by the lahar that leveled a good part of the Bicol landscape. The Daraga Church is God’s oldest mansion in the province. Built mainly of volcanic rocks, it has survived a number of eruptions, including the one that entombed its next-town neighbor.

The baroque structure sits on top of a hill, so prepare for a short steep hike if you’re going on foot. If you’re climbing on three wheels as we did, say a little prayer before you let manong driver attempt to drive you through the church’s doorsteps. Our tricycle’s motor cried and wheezed a worrying sound that made us appreciate the fact that we haven’t eaten yet. A bowl of rice prior to the climb would have probably resulted in a foot-assisted push for the tricycle, with us providing the extra horsepower.

The façade of the Nuestra Senora de la Porteria (Our Lady of the Gate) features four columns that, while still prominent, seem to also blend seamlessly with the carvings. Four medallions decorate the pillars, each representing a gospel in the bible. While the façade retained its 1773 appearance, the church’s interior seemed to have been recently renovated. The tranquility inside the church is noticeable. One might even hear himself pray in silence. The altar is simple, yet its simplicity might actually be its charm.

Waway’s Restaurant

After saying a short prayer, we headed back to Legazpi for our final stop – Waway’s! We’ve searched the Net for highly-recommended restaurants in the city, and Waway’s was consistently being mentioned as a good haven for those who seek to relish the city’s local dishes. The ride to Penaranda St. was quite long although it was worth the trip. The first thing that we looked and asked for was the Bicol Express. Fearing that we might need something to put the fire out of our tongue, we ordered soda, lots of them. The first bite lived up to its billing. It was delicious! It wasn’t as spicy as we thought it would be. The chicharong bulaklak and pork sisig complemented the Bicol delicacy excellently.

Peek-a-boo!

It was already 12 noon and it was time for us to go back to the airport for our early afternoon flight. Cebu Pacific made us wait for a while, but we didn’t mind as we were still hoping that the clouds would give in to our request for it to leave the volcano. Our hope faded when the 40-minute delay was not extended anymore as we were already called to board the aircraft. Just when we were about to go inside, it happened – Mayon winked! It blew away the clouds for a few seconds. We quickly frisked and scampered ourselves for a camera. The view was awesome. What a way to write fin to our Legazpi vacation!

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The majestic Mayon volcano was in a playful mood when we landed in Legazpi City, teasing us all throughout the day as we pleaded for it to blow away its white shroud even for just a moment.

Gin and I were expecting to be treated with a view of the world’s perfect cone upon stepping out of the plane. I even excitedly told her that we might even have a glimpse of it while we’re still in the air. However, we only saw lush vegetation and forests on our approach towards the airport. We were still combing the greens with our eyes for something interesting to see when we were nudged to our seat by a rough landing. It felt as if the pilot just dropped the plane on the runway like a bowling novice dropping a bowling ball on the lane. Gin begged to differ, though.

After stamping our first mark on the tarmac, I immediately tried to look for Mayon. At first, I thought I was just looking at the wrong direction. But after mimicking the possessed child in The Exorcist, my strained eyes and neck couldn’t find the volcano. While wondering as to where it is, I noticed a wide mound just below a band of clouds that hovered behind Lignon hill. I then realized that it was Mayon!

After passing by the tourist desk, we set out on foot to Lignon hill. We were told that it was just a 15-minute walk from the airport. But after five minutes of avoiding mud and potholes, we decided to just take a tricycle to the foot of our first stop.

Lignon Hill

Lignon Hill is the first accessible tourist attraction from the airport. It’s a favorite among first timers and locals alike as it gives one a good 360-degree view of the whole city, including a panoramic and unobstructed vista of Mt. Mayon. At first, the trek seemed easy as a paved road laces Lignon from head to foot. However, just 10 minutes through the climb, my knees were starting to remind me that they were missing a few ligaments. On the other hand, Gin was just taking it in stride (to think that I was the one in Nikes), going up on bends and inclines as if her Havaianas had wings on them. I ended up trailing her for most of the hike.

One thing that made our climb interestingly difficult was Legazpi’s fickle weather. We were initially thankful that the sun didn’t get out of bed immediately. After thanking the heavens for what seemed to be a sweat-free climb in view of the sun’s absence, the clouds played a trick on us by sprinkling us with rain on some stretches of our hike. Gin was saved from a second bath, thanks to her umbrella. Unfortunately for me, I didn’t bring one. While we shared her small piece of roof, I still ended up looking like I needed a spin drier.

The climb was worth it, though. Upon reaching Lignon’s peak, we were treated to a spectacular view of Legazpi City. The summit also seemed to be a very good viewing deck for Mayon hunters. Serving as Lignon Hill’s crown is a huge gazebo. The structure and the area around it are still undergoing construction and landscaping, so visitors have something to look forward to in the months to come.

While we were feasting on a sensory overload courtesy of the surrounding mountains and the Albay Gulf, the temperamental Mayon still wasn’t in the mood to give us a moment of its time, so we went down the Lignon mound with only pictures of a gray-shaded volcano. Before reaching the base, we took shelter on a nearby sari sari store as we were again threatened with a third bath. Coconuts littered the area. I was hoping for a buko shake. But after noticing the absence of electric posts, I gave up on the hope that the store has a blender. I just settled for a bottle of Pop Cola while Gin had a whole coconut for herself

(Part 2 to be continued)

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Cebu has not earned the moniker “Queen City of the South” for nothing. If the Cebuanos and the thousands of Manilenos who have visited it would be asked, I’m sure they’ll say that Cebu is the Queen City not just of the south, but of every direction that a compass could point to at this part of the world.

Exaggeration aside (or is it?), Cebu is definitely the most developed city in the Philippines after Manila. Some even say that it’s almost like a spitting image of the capital, except that it is less infested with pollution and traffic. I agree.

Concrete Rainbows

The first thing that would welcome you upon driving to the island is one of its bridges. In our case, it was the one built in honor of the late Chief Justice and Senate President, Marcelo B. Fernan. It’s one of the longest bridges in the country, and the second most picturesque after San Juanico. The other concrete rainbow, the Mactan-Mandaue bridge, was built a few decades earlier. At the end of both bridges lies the port city of Mandaue. There’s nothing much to see there other than Henry Sy’s first and biggest Visayan model of his shoe box.

Our first stop after filling our tanks at Shangri-La Mactan’s Tides Restaurant is the Taoist Temple at Beverly Hills Subdivision. It took us around 40 minutes to get there from the resort (Cebu’s traffic is slowly rivaling that of Manila’s!). We were quite worried about this trip as the temple is a long walk from the subdivision gates. It’s a good thing our cab driver was cool to the idea that he’d be our transportation host for the rest of the afternoon (and for P400 only!).

Taoist Temple

Built in 1972 by the city’s Chinese-Filipino community, the structure resembles a typical oriental place of worship, albeit more ornate. Take a deep breath before attempting to reach its peak, though. The temple has 99 steps, a daunting number for those who are infatuated with escalators and elevators.

But the effort will be worth it, I assure you. Upon reaching the top, you’ll be treated to an exhilarating view of the city, Mactan Island, and nearby Bohol. The temple is situated 300 meters above sea level, so I’m sure you already have an idea how good the vista is at this part of town. The setting is quite romantic. Unfortunately for me, my partner is romantically-challenged (but I love her just the same :) ). The fact that we were catching our breath from the steep climb may have also erased any possibility of a hallmark moment.

Magellan’s Cross

It’s already 4:00 p.m. and the sun was racing us to the ground. We hurried back to our waiting taxi and headed off to the downtown area. Daylight was fast dimming when we reached Magellan’s Cross. In case you might not know, this cross is the very one that Magellan planted on the island on April 14, 1521. The shrine is also the very spot where Rajah Humabon, Reyna Juana, and a few hundred of their followers were baptized by Fr. Pedro Valderama, making them the country’s first Christians.

The wooden cross that you’ll see in the shrine is actually just the casing. Inside it is the original cross. It was encased therein by the Augustinian priests as locals were chipping bits of the cross as it was widely believed to have miraculous qualities. Local folklore also has it that the cross is actually growing and that its present size is significantly bigger than the original one. A mural of the conversion and baptism can be seen on the ceiling of the chapel/pavilion that houses the cross.

The Sto. Nino

Right beside the shrine is the most important structure in Cebu City – the Basilica Minore del Sto. Nino. Built in 1735, it is the oldest church in the country and the cradle of Catholicism in the region. It’s also the very spot where the image of the Sto. Nino was found unscathed after a fire gutted the structure which housed it. It underwent several constructions since it first stood in 1566. The church was originally made of wood, mud, and nipa.

As with Magellan’s Cross, the image of the Sto. Nino is the very one that the Portuguese conquistador gave to the royal couple of the island in 1521. The figure’s complexion turned dark, though, due to the fire that engulfed the small shrine that hosted it when Miguel Lopez de Legaspi arrived in the city. Hundreds of pilgrims line up to pray before the image, while thousands flock around it during the annual Sinulog festival held every third week of January.

After praying before the basilica’s altar and the image of the Child Jesus, we headed off to Colon, the country’s oldest street. The sun already bade goodbye to us when we were looking for a pasalubong shop, so we went to the first grocery store that we saw (Metro Gaisano). Images of the plane leaving us flashed in my mind when we exited the store as people were jostling for taxis. Luckily, Gin was able to hale one down and one-upped the others to it (made me love her even more hehe :) ). We arrived at the airport well ahead of our departure time. What a great birthdate it was

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If there’s one trip that I would label as “unforgettable,” it would definitely have to be this one.

Not only did we get our airfare to Cebu for free, it was also our first trip outside Manila. It also happened to be my 31st birthday. But the thing that really lit the candles of my cake and sparked the rest of my day was the fact that this was our very first date!

waiting to board our plane

Although I already had everything planned, the day didn’t start flawlessly. In fact, it started terribly. We encountered turbulence even before we boarded the plane when we didn’t get to be at the Cebu Pacific check-in counter 45 minutes before our 6:35 a.m. flight. The lady manning the check-in desk refused to accept us as it was already 6:05 a.m. I wanted to argue our way to the boarding gate, but I decided to just save it for another day. Our zero-fare tickets ended up having a couple of zeroes more, only this time it was preceded by a different digit.

We left Manila at around 10:15 a.m. Gin and I originally planned to just sleep through the entire trip. However, Cebu Pacific’s in-flight game jolted our drowsiness away. We didn’t welcome the game at first, but we ended up as active participants and eventually won a water tumbler.

Mactan-Cebu International Airport

We landed in Cebu an hour later. Cebu shares its airport with Mactan, the latter being the actual host of the facilities. Nothing much has changed in the airport. But it still remains to be a good and very efficient one. It’s even more tourist-friendly than NAIA as it has a tourist information desk with free brochures and maps of the city. There was even a time when it put to shame our airports here in Manila, well at least to the ones which served the domestic flights. That reign ended when Terminal 2’s construction was completed in 1998. And with Bacolod and Iloilo now having new air terminals, I think the Mactan-Cebu International Airport is already due for a facelift.

We didn’t immediately proceed to Cebu City. Our first stop of the day was at the Shangri-La Mactan Resort & Spa for lunch. Getting a taxi at Mactan-Cebu airport is easy. There are coupon cabs and metered ones. Taxi drivers in Mactan and Cebu are very courteous. Some would even chase you down to give you your change, even if it’s just a few pesos! I wish I could say the same for Manila’s cab drivers. The drive to Shangri-La took just 15 minutes. I’m glad to see that Mactan still retained some of its rural charms. However, urbanization is fast creeping in on the island. I hope the place won’t transform into another replica of the city proper.

I wanted our lunch date to be a bit grand as it was a special occasion, so we went to the hotel’s Tides Restaurant for a buffet feast (I won’t be featuring Tides and Shangri-La in this post as I’ll be devoting a separate article on them). After filling our tanks, we went around the hotel to give our tummies time to sort out the things that we’ve eaten. The facilities and the view at the resort were captivating. We were so absorbed with the sensory feast that we didn’t notice that it was already 2:00 p.m. Time was of the essence as we’re scheduled to go back to Manila by 8:45 p.m.

Shangri-La Mactan Resort and Spa

One thing I liked about the hotel staff, and about the Cebuanos in general, is that they’re very friendly. Upon seeing us waiting for a cab by the entrance, an employee offered us a ride at the hotel’s golf cart. It was a fun ride going to the hotel’s exit by the main road. We found a cab a few minutes later and headed to Cebu.   (Part 2 To be Continued)

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I’ve been wanting to take a peek at the Philippine’s premier (or so they say) air terminal for the longest time since the contractor finished capping their imposing creation with a roof. Unfortunately, legal matters prevented its early inauguration. Everybody was afraid that rust would already check in at the mothballed terminal. It’s a good thing that the authorities were able to open it, albeit just 90-95% complete.

Ninoy Aquino International Airport Terminal 3

While the NAIA Terminal 3 is the largest airport in the country, I can’t say that it’s the most splendid. Aesthetically, it’s a bit wanting. I find Terminal 2 more charming, although it’s slowly showing signs of wear and tear. T3 didn’t even elicit in me that awe effect that Terminal 1 had when I first saw it. You may argue that airports don’t have to look grand as long as it functions well. But airports are the first thing that visitors see in the country where they’re sojourning. And with Filipinos being known to show everything that’s good and grand in their abode whenever they’re welcoming guests therein, it’s quite surprising to see that they didn’t seem to have given their best for that all-important first impression.

But in fairness to those who conceived the design of the terminal, it is spacious and passenger-friendly. To begin with, it has a number of entrances. Terminal 2 only has one, so you could just imagine the long line that slowly slithers in it. The number of check-in counters at the NAIA Terminal 3 goes beyond the number of fingers, appendages, or protrusions in my body. In other words, it’s an unlimited resource. But for some reason, long queues greeted me and my special someone (hi, dear ) on our 6:35 a.m. flight to Cebu. We got left by the plane, but that’s another story.

The only bottleneck that we encountered in the building was in the final passenger and baggage check that borders the check-in area and the departure lounges. There were several x-ray machines available for use. However, for some reason, only one was utilized.

It’s comforting to know that a generous amount of floor area was devoted to gates and waiting lounges. There are even walkalators scattered in the area (a few more would be very much appreciated). A considerable amount of space has also been set aside for shops. Only a few stalls/commercial spaces were occupied, though. Maybe more would come in as the number of flights increases in T3.

As with the departure area, the arrival hall is expansive. Long waits at the baggage carousels are a rarity as the terminal features 7 huge ones. The hall also offers an area for the passengers’ waiting friends and relatives, a feature or distinction that the other two terminals do not have as they don’t allow non-passengers inside the building.

Getting a cab is easy at NAIA Terminal 3. Airport metered cabs and coupon taxis are immediately available upon exiting the terminal. Coupon taxis have fixed rates for defined routes. They cost twice as much as their metered counterparts. Regular metered taxis also line the perimeter fence of the terminal. It’s just a short walk from the exit, but you’ll have to flex your muscles when you’re carrying many bags or luggage as the baggage carts cannot be brought beyond the waiting area.

While the terminal isn’t as enormous as Honk Kong’s Chek Lap Kok or as grand as Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi, it’s comforting to know that we already have an airport that’s presentable and efficient. A trip to or via NAIA T3 is still a treat, considering what we’ve been asked to deal with a few years ago whenever we’re taking local flights (remember the old domestic terminal?). Be sure to bring along with you jackets and sweaters that are suitable for Baguio-like temperatures. This cavernous terminal can get extremely cold, especially during the early part of the morning. I learned that the hard way.

 

You may also see Vacation Leave at Blogspot — http://www.vacationleave.blogspot.com/

Useful/related links:

www.miaa.gov.ph
http://www.cebupacificair.com/